Here’s the situation, you have a suit that has everything you want: the right materials, the right colours, all the fine details you love but something just isn’t fully there. You can’t put your finger on it but some minor tweaks will change it from a 7 rating to a 9. Here are three of the most common diagnoses that we see from clients who walk in with their own suits:
1. The High Road
Have you noticed a friend or family member with a couple of baby bumps on the back of their suit jacket or blazer? Maybe on your own jacket? There’s one extremely simple explanation for this: incorrect measurements to accommodate for high shoulders. High shoulders can be due to genetics or due to athletic build.
These individuals tend to have a shorter neck. The high shoulder and short neck combination needs to be considered throughout your entire suit but especially in the shoulders, as it pushes the material down towards your back and creates bunching.
So what’s the solution? Letting out the seam and removing excess fabric around the neck and, depending on the severity of rise, shoulders. Trimming both the neck and shoulder is called a “Square Back”.
It’s easy to overlook the rolling hills on your back, as many things are “out of sight, out of mind”, but you can be the fashionable saviour to your social circles. This ripply crisis can be averted by having the shoulders specifically manicured to your measurements.
2. Less is More
Bunching is the pits…literally. Many times there is excess material around where your chest meets the armholes, which results in a billowy jacket, more ripples and overall boxy look. This is especially important for those of you with a wider chest, like ex-NBA star Shaq to our left. We’ve even seen a shortcut used by other tailors where the body was taken in but the chest was not.
To fix this, we open up the armholes and remove the excess material that spans your pecs.
3. Take Up Arms
Shortcuts mean more cuts.
If you’ve had your jacket altered to bring it in closer to the body or shorten the sleeves but haven’t tapered the arms, your sleeves will look like industrial chimney stacks on a townhouse.
Tapering in the sleeves is essential to having a great looking suit. This is why those with genetically shorter arms still look damn good in a jacket, such as Peter Dinklage of Game of Thrones.
Your jacket should be measured to fit your body, right down to your wrists.
The common thread with these recurring issues is the right tailor; one that knows what and how to measure to ensure the best fit for your body type. At Eric Sana, communication is key. We will tell you each step of the process and why each step is important.
Next time you’re standing in the mirror, check out your jackets and blazers for yourself. If there are any bumps, ripples or irregularities, give us a call!